My Summer Project: A Ballroom Gown. Advice welcome.

[Glasswren]

So, I have decided to to challenge myself this Summer and move from the most simple dresses into creating an actual gown. While it will be for my daughter (10y), it is meant solely for show use and therefore I don't have to worry about the dresscode for once.:p

I am not intending to go overboard, but there will be rhinestones iinvolved and a small keyhole opening on the back. It'll also be longer than normally allowed.

Now, the question before I even start is about godets. I plan to use two lycra fabrics, one plain and one with a floral print. What would be the best fabric choice for the godets? Satin? Chiffon? Something I've never heard of? Would the second lycra work? Opinions ould be appreciated.:)

[fascination]

I have had gowns with godets in all of the above fabrics...so it can be done...as for the pitfalls of sewing with the various fabrics...I would trust laura and dressgirl to have some wisdom on those issues

[etp777]

I'll say same as fasc, I've seen mom use them all, will let thosee of us who know more than me give you a final suggestion. :)

[Laura]

The easiest thing to use is lycra. This is because lycra doesn't fray and also stretches. Chiffon is commonly used, the issue with silk chiffon is that it wrinkles easily. If you use cheap polyester chiffon, it will fray like crazy, but if you get a good poly chiffon or even better yet a poly georgette (it's slightly heavier than chiffon) that will work too.

[Glasswren]

Thank you! The project is currently moving forward: Most of the fabric was bought.

I also finished the base leotard and am next working on the overdress, which will be the Latin dress. A separate skirt will go between the layers making it a standard dress.

I have certain worries, but there is no point painting the devil on the wall beforehand. If I need to start over, I will, but that is tomorrow's headache.:cool:

As an attachment a picture of the two fabrics in use so far, in case anyone wants to see what I am possibly ruining. ;)

[wooh]

I like the fabrics! Why don't you whip together a gown for me with the leftovers after you're done!:p

[dressgirl]

You'll be fine, the first time round is a bit of an experiment. Godets can be frustrating. You are better off with lycra to lycra than to add a new texture, weight, stretch and "slime" factor to the mix.

I say slime not in the traditional sense, but rather in that some stretch fabrics are slicker than others and fabric against fabric creates almost a sewing on ice type of moment. Which is why a lot of new sewers stretch the fabric as they sew. And that really doesn't work if you have two way different types of fabrics.

Good luck!

[Glasswren]

Thanks for the replies again. Wooh, are you into the handkerchief latin dresses? I fear there won't be scraps for anything more covering. ;)

This project, like most things I do, change over time. I seem to always have plan B, plan C and so on and the final result frequently looks rather different from the first sketch. Right now I have the Latin part of the dress ready save for the hem. There is no seam on the front, it just folded.
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/ldress1.jpg
I am thinking of a purple satin on the hem of this and right now I have a new plan for the long skirt that goes under this. I saw a piece of lovely georgette matching the color of the flowers at the fabric store today. If it is still there when I get a chance go back, I'll probably go for it.

Also, what changed since the first drafts is that there is no keyhole. This is because I decided that the stoning will all be on the 'accessories' so that the base dress might be eventually used in competition as well.

Now the Accessories. There will be a collar. Cuffs attached to either a float or scarves depending on fabric choices to be used for Standard. For the latin dress, my daughter requested fingerless gloves.

Of course, tomorrow it could all change again. :oops:
But even when my plans change, the advice given remains for further use and is greatly appreciated.

[Laura]

It's very sweet looking. Good job!

[wooh]

Love it! Very nice!
(And it would take a LOT of handkerchiefs to cover me, so I guess I'll just have to wait!:p)

[Glasswren]

Thank you, wooh and Laura and everyone who has read this. I have no-one here I could share this stuff with, the other mothers aren't interested in sewing and even if they were would likely think I am nuts working on something that may not be worn for quite some time, since D doesn't even have a partner anymore. But I am doing it to challenge myself. :)

This was my first attempt to attach an overdress to the underbody, this far there's always been just one layer. It did not come out badly. I made the gauntlets today, those are the easiest part, I think.

Some things have me still puzzled. How do I make the collar so that it does stretch enough to be comfortable, but doesn't wrinkle? What color and shape should the float be? If the float is lilac, should the cuffs be too? Would it be silly to put fishingline in the hem?

[Glasswren]

The satin trim arrived and this part of the project got finished. Shown here on a very reluctant model. :rolleyes:
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/sarja.jpg

It'll get used for something and I learned a few new tricks, so it was worth it. The lilac georgette skirt will be made too. However, I have new plans stewing for a top that will share that skirt with this one...

:banana: I am having fun with this.

[Laura]

How do I make the collar so that it does stretch enough to be comfortable, but doesn't wrinkle?
Do you mean the neckline? I don't see a collar in the picture. Anyway, all you do is cut it to be the shape you want. Then, when you sew the elastic into the edging, do not stretch the elastic or the fabric. This way when there's no pressure on the neckline, the fabric and elastic will lay flat, but if it needs to stretch it can and will just fine.

What color and shape should the float be?
There are an infinite number of ways to cut floats. The easiest to start with would be a crescent moon shape, that goes from one arm to the other, or a triangle, that attaches at the shoulder and wrist and then just hangs down.

If the float is lilac, should the cuffs be too?
I think it looks better when they coordinate, but anything is possible.

Would it be silly to put fishingline in the hem?
Of the float or of the skirt? I've seen both.

[wooh]

Very cute dress!

[Glasswren]

Thanks wooh for the comment. :)

Laura, thank you. I appreciate your input greatly. :)

I meant a separate collar, like a fabric necklace. I am failing to find a better name for it. It needs to be soft, but stiff enough not to fold on itself. Yet it needs to breathe too.

I like the crescent shaped floats personally, so I'll probably go for that. Especially since it'll not be huge. Long, but not terribly wide as I don't want to hide the girl behind it.

I had not even considered fishing line for the float. Hmm. Probably not for this one. For the hem, I'll do it. For one, D loves those and for another, I've not done it yet, so it'll be another excercise for me.

I am picking up the georgette tomorrow, but will have to wait until next week for the lilac lycra to arrive. Still, the hems should keep me busy enough until then. :p

[Laura]

I meant a separate collar, like a fabric necklace. I am failing to find a better name for it. It needs to be soft, but stiff enough not to fold on itself. Yet it needs to breathe too.
People usually make those by covering elastic with some of the stretchy fabric used in making the rest of the dress. Use hooks or snaps to fasten it.

[Corne]

The easiest thing to use is lycra. This is because lycra doesn't fray and also stretches. Chiffon is commonly used, the issue with silk chiffon is that it wrinkles easily. If you use cheap polyester chiffon, it will fray like crazy, but if you get a good poly chiffon or even better yet a poly georgette (it's slightly heavier than chiffon) that will work too.

What do you think of silk georgette for the godets ?
As the lycra/slinky that i am using is a bit duller in color (mint green) than i wanted, can i use a brighter mint green color for the godets ?

[Laura]

What do you think of silk georgette for the godets ?
I'd want to see how easily the fabric wrinkle and how easy it is to iron first.

As the lycra/slinky that i am using is a bit duller in color (mint green) than i wanted, can i use a brighter mint green color for the godets ?
All that matters is that you like the combination.

[Glasswren]

Thanks Laura. Hi Corne, nice to see you here. I love mint green and would love to see the result when you get your godets in. :)

My project advanced today. I got the lilac georgette and heard that the lycra has been mailed too. Originally I had planned on spending the weekend on the hem part, but I actually finished it tonight.

The fishing line works nicely. The loose, soft waves made me change my mind: I will use it on the float too. I have the crescent cut out already, but sewing will have to wait until tomorrow. After that there's not much I can do until the lycra arrives next week.

[Glasswren]

I've avoided princess seamed patterns due to bad experiences as a teen, but since this is project of learning and challenging myself, I have now looked into one.

Are the 'side front' and 'side back' parts supposed to be longer than the 'front' and 'back' parts? I suppose it is possible to stretch the shorter part to fit, but it feels somehow odd.

[katen]

Are the 'side front' and 'side back' parts supposed to be longer than the 'front' and 'back' parts? I suppose it is possible to stretch the shorter part to fit, but it feels somehow odd.

The seam-lines (where you sew) are the same length, but the addition of seam allowances (15mm on many patterns, 6mm on kwik-sew; the exact width for your pattern will probably be buried in the sewing directions section at the start of the instructions) makes the pieces have different length edges. You may need to mark the seamlines on the pieces with chalk to see what you are trying to match up...

[Laura]

Are the 'side front' and 'side back' parts supposed to be longer than the 'front' and 'back' parts?
Are you comparing the pattern pieces, or what you've got after you've sewn everything together?

If you're compating the pattern pieces, the side front and side back parts are generally shorter.

If you're talking about once you've sewn everything together...well, that happens, and I just cut off the excess. I just make sure that when I put things together that I start at the "top" of the panels and sew from there, that forces the excess down to the hem where I can just cut it off to match the front and back.

[Glasswren]

Thank you. I was comparing the pattern pieces. It is the wide seam allowances that causes the difference. Once those are taken away, the pieces fit. :)

Now I just need patience waiting for the mail....

[Glasswren]

Here we go. Another phase completed. The lilac lycra arrived and I was able to get the waistband on the long skirt. (Please, don't mind my little lady's odd hairdo.):p
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/koko.jpg
Only the wristbands, necklace and decoration remain to do..and then she'd be ready to entertain the elderly and infirm with her dance again. (As soon as we can find someone to dance with her, of course.)

[wooh]

Ahhh, she's so cute! And I actually love the hairdo, perhaps we could get it to take the ballroom world by storm. No more boring buns!

[dancingmomof2]

I bought a pattern the other day that I thought would be good for my sons dance partner at their next event. Its a McCall's M5136. I don't know if you have seen it but I thought it would be cute on a young lady. I haven't made it yet but bought some similar fabric and thought I would give it a whirl.

BTW I think your reluctant model looks fabulous.

[Glasswren]

I've looked at that McCall pattern as well and considered getting it for inspiration. I am personally attracted to halter style dresses and the skirt is rather pretty. I have no idea how hard that pattern is to sew, but it is pretty.

Thank you for the compliment. Actually, my daughter wasn't too reluctant last night: She jumped to the photo session when she learned I'd carry her onto that rug. :nope:

My young lady will be 10 in August, so what she can normally wear is rather restricted, but I am having fun experimenting and we live in hopes that in a few years I'll be able to procure the dresses she'll need then. It'll take a lot of work on both our parts though.:)

[dancingmomof2]

That's great. My son's are 11 and 15 and have been dancing with a partner for about 2 1/2 years. They have danced at charity events and non formal competitions but nothing formal yet. I would love to see them really compete but I am happy to see them just out there having fun. I've looked at the restrictions for the costumes it seems a little intimidating. Did you just create your pattern from scratch for your daughters dress?

[Glasswren]

The regulations aren't hard to follow unless one is trying to test the limits. I've not found any reason for that, but then I think simple is beautiful. The green outfit on my avatar conforms to the ISDF juvenile rules. So does the dress she wore on the two competitions she took part in last Spring. She can be seen here (http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/kaidonna.jpg) with her now former partner.


This one is a combination of Kwik Sew 3508 and 2679 with an added length to the back of the skirt. In addition it has an underbody and overbody that are connected at the neck and armholes only so that the long skirt can get high enough under the short one.

What would be wrong with this as a competion dress? Well, her shoulders are exposed, it is not one single color, the upper skirt does not have an even hemline and it is not the same lenght as the longer skirt, which is also too long, has too many layers and a fishingline in the hem. The float is, naturally, not allowed. It'll get still worse once I get the cuffs and collar and start glueing sparky stones on them.:cool:

[Laura]

I bought a pattern the other day that I thought would be good for my sons dance partner at their next event. Its a McCall's M5136. I don't know if you have seen it but I thought it would be cute on a young lady. I haven't made it yet but bought some similar fabric and thought I would give it a whirl.
Depending on your son's partner's age and the sanctioning body for the event they are dancing in, that dress might not be legal.

If they are in the Pre-Teen age group and dancing in a USA Dance (or IDSF event), that dress is not legal because it is not one of the neckline and sleeve shapes shown in "Appendix 2" of rule 3.10.4, at the top of page 15 in the USA Dance rule book. A Pre-Teen's dress needs to have sleeves, and this pattern doesn't.

If they are Junior I or higher in age group, then the dress is allowable.

Anyway, it is cute and should be fairly simply to make. I've had good success working with McCalls patterns over the years.

[Glasswren]

The cuffs and collar are done, the elastic works wonderfully inside. :)

Moving slowly forward, I am now contemplating the second overlayer/latin dress. Over the course of the Spring I was able to acquire Simplicity 4315 pattern that is no longer in print.
For those who have no idea what that looks like: http://
cgi.ebay.com/Girls-Dance-Dress-Costume-PATTERN-Ballroom-Jazz-OOP_
W0QQitemZ110266076893QQihZ001QQcategoryZ116690QQtc ZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
If anyone should want one, they come cheaper than this one. But the picture is good.

I am thinking slightly modified pattern E, the green drawing. Though mine would be lilac, of course. The current dream is stoning it with tanzanite, light amethyst and crystal, but that decision won't be made until I have had the chance to see the stones personally.

(When looking for this pattern image I also came across something that made me roll my eyes. Postage is often an annoyance, but this one eBay seller wants $6,340 for shipping one $5 pattern... One can only wonder.:rolleyes: )

[dancingmomof2]

That seems like a really cute pattern. I can't believe the shipping what a racket!

[Glasswren]

I have fell in love. well, sort of...I found this beautiful fabric. But before I take this thing any further, I need to know something.

Can powernet be used in godets?

[Laura]

Yes. The great thing about godets is that you can put anything in there you want! (Although, I would not use a very lightweight stretchy fabric for the main part of the dress, and then use something really heavy in the godets, but that's not what you are doing.)

[Glasswren]

Great! Thanks. :)
Now all I need is to wait for the day moeny comes into my bank account again. And decide whether to do the main body in yellow or orange. That'll probably be best left until I have this fabric in my hands.

[lighta]

I am also mom of almost 10yrs old girl, dancing from her 7, but getting her partner now. So I´m looking for some inspiration to make her first real competition dress. The dress you made is beautiful and I hope seeing the next one soon. But my problem is: I've read idsf regulation :confused:. That means I need some one-colored simple dress. Color is probably the only thing what will make the dress interesting. I have found some videos girls having very shiny colors. But I would like to see more pictures with legal dresses, do you know where to search? I've googled for hours and found nothing, except of this very interesting forum.:D Can I find something else?

[Glasswren]

Very nice to meet you! :)

Here is D at her first competion in her Standard dress (http://fregolina.net/kuvat/kuvagalleria/kaidonna1.jpg). She had the same dress in what I call 'blueberry yoghurt' with short sleeves and a little shorter hem for the Latin. The dress in the picture has later lost the collar and the zipper. They were made with this pattern (http://www.kwiksew.com/Catalog/cat_detail.cfm?pid=3508&QL=GirlSwimActive) only lenghtening the skirt.

After those I experimented a bit and added finger loops to one dress as they really are the only 'special' thing allowed and D likes them. Then it was time for the lime green outfit that is in my avatar. Unfortunately I don't have a bigger picture of it, but I might be able to take some later.

The children often wear very bright colors, even fluorescent, because it is believed they will be easier to spot on the floor that way. Metallics, holograms and other shiny lighteffects, however, are not allowed. Sometimes there is so much color on the floor that the one who stands out best is the girl in the black.

I can try to hunt a few pictures of other people's dresses, but I'd have to put those links in a PM as the people wearing them might not appreciate being displayed here.

[latingal]

Welcome to DF lighta!

[lighta]

Thank you Glasswren for your picture, I expected doing something very easy, even without sleeves. Or are long or 3/4l. sleeves better? Do girls change their dresses for latin and standard if there is practically no difference between them? I don't see any sense for it, just because of 10cm of length,or so... I never danced, never visited any competition, so my question seem to be stupid. After first comp I'll be more informed, but I don't want to make a big mistake for the first time. I expect that trainer will inform us in September, but I need much, much time to create something, so I want to prepare it in August, when I'll have more time for my "art". Later I'll have no time for it. :( I'll make a research in fabrics today, so if it is necessary I could buy two different colours for two dresses. I have seen mixture of cotton and elastane in one shop, but colours were very decent, like red wine or orange to brown or gray-blue. I'll see what will touch my eye today.
I am happy to find mother having the same interests. I didn't expect that sewing a dance dress will improve my english, too. :)

[Glasswren]

:rolleyes: As my model was not in the mood, I could not get new pictures. Here (http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/limegreen.jpg) is one taken of the lime green thing in May. It is awful quality as there wasn't enough light, but I think one can see what that outfit is like. Sort of anyway.

For me things will quiet down with sewing for a bit as I bought a bicycle. Sometimes needs have to be put first.

[Glasswren]

Nothing new on our project, save that D may be wearing the turquoise/lilac combo next Thursady if she does a showcase with her ex-partner.

However, I stumbled on an excellent example of good Junior 1 class dresses:
Croatian National Standard Championships 2008 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f5E9UQo3o8). Beautiful dancing as well, they are very good. The sleeve length is really a matter of taste. Some like them short, some long. I suppose the season matters too in some cases.

Malakawa: If you happen to read this, what does 'Bečki' mean in the Croatian name of Viennese Waltz?

[Zhena]

Malakawa: If you happen to read this, what does 'Bečki' mean in the Croatian name of Viennese Waltz?

The name for Vienna in Croatian is Bec (with the thingy over the c).

[Glasswren]

Thanks, Zhena. :)

[Glasswren]

The Summer Project got to be used tonight! Our Club did a show for patients at a Multiple Sclerosis treatment center. I don't know how to translate that better.
Since D's ex-partner's new girl is absent all this week, D substituted her for this show. Sure, the performance could have been better, but considering they stopped practicing together months ago, not too bad. Imo, the Latin was better than the Standard.:)

It would be an honor, if anyone wished to view some beginner class dancing. D is the 10-year old in turquoise and lilac, of course. The rest are three years her senior.

http ://www.ampell.net/dance/masku/August28.html

[ChelD]

Cute!

[Glasswren]

So, it is not Summer anymore, but I don't like starting new threads for everything, so I'll just continue here.

I am planning another 'project' dress, which I want to have ready by Dec. 4th as our studio is having the Christmas party then. It is themed Independence Day (the real one is on Dec. 6th) and we'll be imitating the Reception the President holds. Therefore, I thought it'd be nice to dress D in a fancier gown than usual and to go with the very patriotic theme, I think I'll make her a blue dress. (Our flag is blue and white).

D's dress will not be the sky blue of the flag though, but Royal Blue. I'll be using this same fabric as I did for this competition qualified dress:
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/bluedress.jpg
My reasons are simple: It is not expensive and my daughter loves the colour. In addition, I've found inexpensive georgette to use for the godets, which I really intend to use this time.

Here lies the problem, I still haven't quite fgured out how they work, if the skirt fabric doesn't go all the way to the hem. I tried to illustrate my dilemma. The problem is the parts that are overlapping in the image.
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/godet.jpg

Please, are they just sewn together or is trimming done first?

[lighta]

Hello, I will solve similar problem this weekend. I have found a step by step manual to this problem on the web, when not needed, and can't find it any more. What I remeber there were stripes of one color - skirt length- and shorter triangels of another color all sewn together. The effect of it was as on your sketch.Triangels will have to be too wide, probably, to cover stripes. I am not sure how will it work, but I'll send you a photo. My project is color of your flag ;).

[Glasswren]

Nice to see you again, lighta. :)

I'll be looking forward to hearing about your solution. Luckily for me, I am somewhat behind things as I cannot order my fabrics until Monday (payday). Or fetch the one I am buying locally.

(Of course, by then I may have totally changed my mind about the colour and modified the design. :oops: But I am going to have fun with it and something will get sewn. :p )

[Glasswren]

So, in the end I ended up with just a new latin dress. Ran out of time badly. Here is the result:
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/xmas08front.jpg
http://www.ampell.net/dance/images/xmas08back.jpg

D liked it. :D

Undoubtedly I'll return to this thread with new projects next year.

[wooh]

That is just precious! Love the lilac color!

[gracie]

Very very cute for her age!

[etp777]

Very nice. I'm all about the black and purple as I've said many times (and yes, purple, nto lilac. I'm a guy. If the color isn't in a crayola 8 pack it doesn't exist. :P )

[pinkstuff]

Really cute. Like it lots.

[Glasswren]

:D Thank you all for your kind compliments.

I am already dreaming of the next one, even though I won't be able to start it for quite some time. Might actually take until February as January brings the payments for the Spring term group lessons.

Then again, there is no hurry until she has a partner to do showcases with and I have the velvet for her next regulation Latin dress.

(If any of you would care to see the videos of D dancing at the Xmas thingie, PM me for the link. :) )

[Glasswren]

First of all, apologies to all who have just waded through the past posts for the missing images. I gave up my website to get more money for dance stuff.

Second, it is the time to get creative again. This time I fancy trying one of those frilly things that were so in fashion last year (and I suppose still are this year). I have a question about that though: What would happen if the ruffles were attached to a circular skirt? It'd be so much easier than doing the recommended paneled skirt, but would it be ruined?

D is going to perform along with her group class on Dance Day (the 29th of April) and we've lent her yellow dress to someone, so I'll have about a week to finish this one once the fabrics arrive.

I am also having a great deal of trouble finding mint/light aqua/pale sea green satin bias binding anywhere. There is one seller on eBay that seems to have it, but they'll only send to the U.K. (I have asked if they'd send here, but haven't received an answer yet.) Any leads on such bias would also be appreciated.

[Dance808]

glasswren i have no idea on answering your question -- but i thought you and some of the others on this thread might know if there are patterns specifically for (in my case, adult) latin dresses -- or do you have to mix & match with patterns for street clothing?

[Glasswren]

SUMMER 2009

Well, it has been a while... (By the way, I did answer the previous poster via PM way back then.)

Today a new member got added to our household. Some have already heard of it in another thread, but it (or maybe she as the form is clearly feminine) arrived today from the Netherlands. Not super chic or fancy, but works for our humble house.

In the attachment it (she) is featuring D's Latin show dress from last Christmas.

Next week the last pieces of fabric and shuch should arrive, so I can start thei Summer's project. Those will be needed at the end of August.

[wooh]

In the attachment it (she) is featuring D's Latin show dress from last Christmas.


That is such a darling dress!

[pinkstuff]

Cute dress :)

[Glasswren]

Thank you, compliments are always nice.

However, you know that dress is old. It was made before Christmas and has been worn twice. :rolleyes: (Yes, it is joke.)

D wore it for the Spring show too, despite the mixed reception it got earlier. It was complimented, but there were also a couple of people (again) mumbling it being too fancy. I didn't have the time to make her a new Latin dress for the Spring, but I did make a Standard practice outfit. It gave me the chance to finally work with godets, too! :)

Pictured both on the dressform and on D at the Spring show.

[wooh]

Another cute one! And of course her latin dress was "too dancy" because people were jealous they couldn't create something that cute for their girls!

[Dance808]

too cute glasswren! my project hasn't started yet... but i'm going to start before fall! :)

[Glasswren]

So, Summer went again. Despite of not updating this thread, I did sew a dress. It is a show dress with moderate decorations and practice for the day when I need to make a real competition gown.:p

The attached picture shows the basic dress (over a white t-shirt) before frills and decorations. The film bit is from August 31st, when D danced at the Open Night. As it was Monday her new partner couldn't be there and she got to do her old routine by herself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d64Y_d5zTac

[latingal]

Glasswren, the dress looks great!!! I think you're well on your way to being able to supply your daughter with a beautiful competition gown...she's a lucky gal!

[bowman500]

Fabulous!!!!!

Diane

[wooh]

It's beautiful!

[Terpsichorean Clod]

Lovely dress and dancing! :)

[Glasswren]

On behalf of both of us and the other kids: Thank you for the kind comments. Much appreciated.

I was pleased with D's waltz, but perhaps even more with the Tango. It has been a very hard dance for her, but it has improved to the point there is no mistaking what dance she is doing. :)

( Myself I am totally intimidated by even having to try Tango. And Jive... Though for very different reasons. )