Any sewers out there? - help!

[dancin_feet]

I'm in the process of designing and making my next dancing costume and have decided to do it myself without mum's help. (Long story, will go into it if you like.)

I am planning on chocolate brown hotpants with a half skirt at the back to create a bit of movement when I do my sexy hip sway thing!! I have found some 100% polyester stretch material which will be perfect for the pants and skirt (maybe top as well) but now am looking for an accent material for an upside down V shape section in the skirt in a bronze or caramel colour (everyone wears black, I wanted to be different). :D

Question is, as long as it is a stretchy material does it matter what the material is? All I can find at the moment in the colour I want is a stretch suede or moleskin type of material (though I still have a few shops to visit). Would this go with the polyester stretch? I am also looking to sew bronzey coloured sequins on the accent colour and some on the chocolate brown part to blend the two together. Would I be better off sewing brown sequins on the brown and bronze on the other part? :?

Please help, I have never done this sort of designing / sewing before and am a bit lost! I know there are a few sewers here, so I'm crossing my fingers that you can understand what I am on about and able to help.

[pygmalion]

Just curious. what color are you? Caramel, bronze, etc, might not show up all that well if you're brown. That's why a lot of people use black -- for contrast against their skin. And yes, you can match fabrics with different amounts of stretch, especially if you have a serger machine. It's much, much, easier, though, if both fabrics are of the same type. With mismatched fabrics, you'll probably have to use loose basting stitches on the less stretchy fabric, then ease it into the more stretchy fabric, somewhat like you would ease a sleeve into an armhole (if that makes sense.)

[dancin_feet]

I'm olive skinned. Basically a caucasian chick with a slight tan. :lol:

What's a serger? Is that the same as an overlocker? I haven't even bought a second hand sewing machine as yet, so I can really only afford that. Don't understand loose basting stitches. I'm planning on trying to swindle a bit of free advice from whoever I buy my machine from! :D

I've tried to get the same type of material but all I can find is a bone or cream colour. Too light for what I want. I know what you mean about skin contrast. That's why I have gone for a chocolate brown (more darkish than milk) because it's almost black, but not quite.

[Laura]

When sewing a stretchy fabric to a stretchy fabric, it's easier but not necessary that the two fabrics have similar stretch characteristics.

When making something that is pieced together out of different fabrics, it's easier but not necessary that the two fabrics have similar weight and drape. I'm not so sure about you using stretch suede or even moleskin, but since I can't see the fabric or touch it I'm not going to say that it will not work at all...there's a lot of "it depends" in sewing :-) I'd just be worried that the moleskin or stretch suede would be too stiff for the skirt and it won't swish and swing nicely.

By the way, inserting the upside-down V or "godet" into a skirt isn't the easiest thing for a newbie sewer to try, so don't be discouraged if you have a difficult time of it.

I love the idea of hotpants...can't wear them myself, but they're great fun fashion!!!

[dancin_feet]

Thanks Laura, I was hoping you'd drop in! :D

The materials I mentioned did drape quite well, but I'll go back and check to see if it is similar to the polyester. One of them was quite soft, so I'm assuming it would have a similar drape to it? I'll check it out. I was also considering some sparkly material, but it was a lot stiffer, so I'll forget that idea (just laziness setting in that I wouldn't have to sew on as many sequins!).

Because I'm creating the pattern myself for the skirt, I'm going to have a test run first on some cheap cotton material. Not all that concerned with the drape of the test version (because the cotton will be stiffer) just want to test out the pattern and try sewing it before I jump into using the real material.

[pygmalion]

A serger is a machine especially designed to sew knits and other "difficult" fabrics.

Yes, as Laura said, similar fabrics are easiest to put together. Otherwise, more work will be required. It won't be easy, but it can be done.

If you don't have a serger, be careful with the knits. Try sewing "stay" stitches over the edge of the knit (stretchier) fabric before you put the two pieces together. The stay stitches will keep the knit from stretching too much out of shape.

[DancePoet]

When I read the title of this thread I read "sewers" as sooers.

I was thinking, "What???".

After reading the beginning it suddenly dawned on me that it really was being used as soers.

Duh!

Lol.

[dancin_feet]

DOH!
:lol:

[DancePoet]

Allright ... showing my ignorance here ... what is DOH?

[Chris Stratton]

Because I'm creating the pattern myself for the skirt, I'm going to have a test run first on some cheap cotton material. Not all that concerned with the drape of the test version (because the cotton will be stiffer) just want to test out the pattern and try sewing it before I jump into using the real material.

You may learn something by making initial trials in the cotton, but to really test the pattern you have to try it in fabric that is the same as the final garment in every aspect except perhaps color - at the very least, your test must stretch the same amount as the real fabric. If you are drafting the pattern yourself, I'd assume that you are going to throw away at least one real-fabric 'learning experience'.

[Laura]

DOH is also D'oh! As in the Homer Simpson interjection, said when he does something dopey.

[DancePoet]

Ah! Don't watch the Simpsons. Now I understand why this wasn't connecting with me.

Thank you.

[salsachinita]

Hey......sorry I'm late to help. Just PM me any time , ok?

Serger IS the American term for over locker. If you don't have one, a big zig-zag stich on your normal machine is functional enough.

Re: Contrast to Chocolate Brown. A dusty pink (!) lacy/textured material would work well (in fashion, too!) Try the two colours together, I think they would work with your skintone.

IMHO Suede/molskin might be a bit on the heavy side, both in looks & in weight. For maximum swish factor, cut everything on the bias, where the fabric has the most drape, natually.

Trying out on cheap cotton calico is a great idea. You might want to wash the starch out first to get a closer feel to the real thing.

When sewing stretch, either use a large stitch (stitch length set on 3?) with a slightly loosened tension (try first!), or a small zia-zag stitch instead, if there's a fair amount of stretch (to avoid stitch breakage during wear & tear).

How are you going? PM me if you need to (give me a call too if you like).

[dancin_feet]

Re: Contrast to Chocolate Brown. A dusty pink (!) lacy/textured material would work well (in fashion, too!) Try the two colours together, I think they would work with your skintone.

Not all that fussed on pink. I have a sample of some bronze/caramel sort of colour in a satin to carry around with me so I can match the colour to what I want. Satin would be great (a bit shimmery) but I doubt it will work with a stretch polyester. It's too stiff (and also not very stretchy).

IMHO Suede/molskin might be a bit on the heavy side, both in looks & in weight. For maximum swish factor, cut everything on the bias, where the fabric has the most drape, natually.

What is cut on the bias? I remember mum making something that she cut everything on the diagonal, is that what you mean? I know about the selvage edge of the material so if you could direct me from there, that would be great.

Trying out on cheap cotton calico is a great idea. You might want to wash the starch out first to get a closer feel to the real thing.

Just trying to save a bit of money so that I'm not throwing away all the good material I have bought on a completely green run. I realise that I may need to throw some away, but hopefully I'll learn a lot by doing the rough draft first. I'm also planning on cutting some small sections of the actual material and just sewing them together to get practice before I start sewing the actual skirt.

When sewing stretch, either use a large stitch (stitch length set on 3?) with a slightly loosened tension (try first!), or a small zia-zag stitch instead, if there's a fair amount of stretch (to avoid stitch breakage during wear & tear).

I'm still looking for a reasonably priced second hand machine, so may not get stuck into this for a couple of weeks yet. I'm looking specifically for one that can sew stretch materials so that I can make my life as easy as possible here. Made a few enquiries from work, but will have a full on look around the second hand shops this weekend. May end the weekend being the owner of an actual sewing machine!! :shock:

Thanks for your help. I'll keep you informed.

[salsachinita]

Re: second hand machine, it's a bit like buying a second hand car. How much do you wanna spend? Some may seem like bargains but by the time you fix all the problems (spare parts may not even be available/affordable) they nearly cost as much as brand new :shock: !

Ask around your local patchwork/quilt shops as many patchwork/quilt fanatics DO up-grade their machines & would part with their old ones (often reliable & well looked after) cheaply. If not, these ladies in the shops are often more helpful/knowledgeable than the pimply kids working in big chain stores like Lincraft :x !

Do you have secondhand classified papers like "Trading Post"? That's a great place to start too.

Bias cut = cutting pieces on the diagonal. You know THAT straight arrow on all the pattern pieces? That tells you the direction of the grain (pararelle to selvedge). Normally skirts etc are cut with the STRAIGHT grain (pararelle to selvedge) but bias cuts are on the diagonal, 45 degrees to the selvedge. Be careful with pieces cut this way. They are prone to stretch out of shape, so handle with care (as you would to fragile pastry :wink: ).

Let me know if you need anything else 8) !

[pygmalion]

Believe it or not, I spent a lot of time thinking about your project when I should have been sleep (about 4:00 AM Eeek)

I recommend that you find someone with sewing experience to help. It sounds like you're not planning to use a pattern. Is that right? If not, and if you have little sewing experience, cutting on the bias will probably be difficult to figure out. Add to that the fact that working with knits, especially two-way stretch knits that are often used for dance clothes, skating dresses, etc, can be tricky. It probably can't hurt to get input from someone nearby that can SHOW you, rather than just tell you. A lot of this stuff is done by feel.

Three more things:

1. A mockup is a good idea. However, if you make it out of woven cotton, your experience and your results may not teach you what you need to know to replicate your results in knit.

2. If your skirt is cut on the bias, make sure you finish it in time to let it hang up for a day or two before hemming, and use a very narrow hem.

3. I'd stay away from velvets and velveteens, at least for your first couple attempts. They're expensive, and they have nap, which is directionality. Even experienced seamstresses will sometimes make an error, and cut against the nap. I wouldn't take the risk until after you have a few successful costumes under your belt (which you WILL. :D )

[dancin_feet]

Thanks guys for all your advice. I'm not planning on cutting on the bias, I'm trying to find some material that is similar to what I have and close to the colour I want. I realise my experience is very limited so won't try that unless I absolutely have to.

I have a couple of friends who sew that I could get over to give me a hand, but they are quite busy so I'm planning on only calling them in the case of an emergency. I've watched and helped mum sew different things (and swear at it) since I was very little, so I have some idea of what is required. I know actually doing it yourself is very different, but life is all about learning, right?

Pygmalion, I'm deliberately staying away from the expensive / difficult materials because I know I'm only learning this, and the whole point of doing it myself is to save some money. Otherwise I'd pay someone to do it for me. Sorry I kept you up thinking about my little project. :wink: Surprisingly enough, I have been sleeping very well!! Maybe I just don't know what I'm getting myself into.

[Chris Stratton]

Since you are still looking to buy a sewing machine, take along some of the fabric you want to use and ask the owner to show you how to set it up to do a zigzag on this material. Setting up to do a tolerable straight stich on woven fabric can be pretty trivial compared to getting acceptable results on a stretch knit, so don't accept a demonstration of one when what you need is the other.

Of course, the best deal on a sewing machine is probably to be had by buying it from someone who was just cleaning out the house and doesn't know how to use it - if you are in a position to evaluate it yourself though.

You might also want to put out the word to extended family/friends. I got mine as a result of an offhand mention... came out of an attic, was headed to the dump until redirected to me.

[dancin_feet]

I've put the word out Chris, but so far nothing has come up. Anyone I know that sews only has the one machine, so there are no spares so far.

Will know more after I do the rounds of the secondhand shops this weekend. Hopefully all the ones I've found in my local area will be open. Smaller operators tend to only open during the week.

[Chris Stratton]

I've put the word out Chris, but so far nothing has come up. Anyone I know that sews only has the one machine, so there are no spares so far.

The best chances might come from asking the people who _don't_ sew, though perhaps you already asked them.

[dancin_feet]

I've put the word out Chris, but so far nothing has come up. Anyone I know that sews only has the one machine, so there are no spares so far.

The best chances might come from asking the people who _don't_ sew, though perhaps you already asked them.

I kind of assumed that if they don't sew, they won't have a machine. Maybe I'll put a notice up at the studio. :idea:

[pygmalion]

Have you tried calling schools? Weird, I know, but, many moons ago, the local public schools used to be a good source for used sewing machines. I'm pretty sure the public schools here still do home economics. At least, some school districts do. The schools where I grew up used to surplus machines fairly often. (The sewing factories used to sell their used equipment, too, but that was industrial grade, and might not suit your purposes. :? )

[Chris Stratton]

I kind of assumed that if they don't sew, they won't have a machine. Maybe I'll put a notice up at the studio. :idea:

But chances are their mother or grandmother did sew, so if you can catch someone right as they are emptying the attic of the ancestral home...

[dancin_feet]

So many ideas, thanks guys. Unfortunately with working all day and dancing most nights, I don't have the time to investigate all of them (though I would love to). Maybe I can feel some sort of illness coming on. **cough cough** May need to take a day off work!! :wink:

[pygmalion]

I've also seen a few ads for used sewing machines in the local newspaper recently.

btw, how's the project coming, dancin_feet? :D

[Sarah]

You might also want to put out the word to extended family/friends. I got mine as a result of an offhand mention... came out of an attic, was headed to the dump until redirected to me.

I got mine from the dump - well- the local recycling centre really. Cost $28.

Cheers
Sarah

[dancin_feet]

I've also seen a few ads for used sewing machines in the local newspaper recently.

btw, how's the project coming, dancin_feet? :D

I haven't had a great deal of time to look, and have found nothing in my price range as yet. Not too sure about buying from the newspaper, it's like buying a second hand car, but there are no experts to give it a once over before you hand over your hard earned money (that I know of anyway).

Turns out this may not be as urgent as I first thought. Had a long talk with mum over the weekend, and she is prepared to lend me a hand. She was much more open minded than the last time I spoke to her about this. That's what made me think I was going to have to do this myself.

Thanks for all your help and advice guys. I still want to get the machine and learn to sew to make costumes, but it now looks like my first few attempts may not be on such public display. Might try a few easy dancing skirts from a pattern first, instead of a major costume.

I have bought the stretch satin material that was in the colour I really liked, because mum said that she can cut it on the bias so that the drape properties are similar to the other material I bought. I will still be doing most of the actual sewing, just with another pair of eyes looking over my shoulder.

**breathes a sigh of relief** :D

[pygmalion]

Mums tend to come through when you least expect it. 8)

When I first started sewing, I got some scrap fabric and just practiced making straight seams for a while. It's pretty much like driving a car, actually. Just visualise the straight seam, similar to the way you visualise driving on a straight line. But translating an imaginary straight seam into what to do with my hands took a while (which really irritated my Mom, who taught me LOL.)

[Chris Stratton]

And then you find that the difference between how wovens and stretch knits go through the machine requires differences in handling not unlike say the difference between standard and latin...

[Laura]

The machine makes a difference...mine treats wovens and knits the same -- I don't have to fiddle with my tensions or foot pressure or any of that. The only thing I have to do is make sure I'm using the right needle for the fabric I'm working on. I don't even have to be fussy about thread -- I use the same thread for everything (Ultra-Lock brand serger thread, even in my regular machine). If your machine is extra-fussy it might need a professional cleaning or a tune-up.

[pygmalion]

Ugh! You should have seen the first item of stretch knit clothing I made. Unrecognizable!! I didn't know how to handle the fabric without stretching it out. :oops: :lol:

[dancin_feet]

I remember mum telling me once when I was a kid that the faster you let the machine go, the straighter the sewing line would be. Whether it was actually in a straight line and not veering off to one side was another matter entirely! :lol:

[Chris Stratton]

A good machine helps (knits seem very senstive to any burs on the presser foot or throat plate for example) but even with the serger that loves to gobble them up, they still seem to require a different sort of 'steering' and handling. I think this is more obvious when you have a lot of experience with one and are very new to the other... once you are a "10-dancer" they are both comfortable.

[Laura]

If I sew too fast I do stupid things like run over pins and break my needle, or catch the fabric and accidentally sew part of the skirt to the seam I'm working on.

[dancin_feet]

If I sew too fast I do stupid things like run over pins and break my needle, or catch the fabric and accidentally sew part of the skirt to the seam I'm working on.

I have often heard mum swearing at her machine for the exact same reason. But have you seen those industrial seamstresses? They go so fast, I'd barely have the material set and the first couple of stitches done before they had finished the entire garment!! :shock:

[pygmalion]

Hey. That's nothing. Has anybody (else LOL) ever sewn their SKIN to the fabric?? :shock: I was a slow learner. :oops: :lol:

[dancin_feet]

Hey. That's nothing. Has anybody (else LOL) ever sewn their SKIN to the fabric?? :shock: I was a slow learner. :oops: :lol:

Owwwwww! :cry:

[pygmalion]

:lol: :lol: Don't worry. It's funny ... now.

[Laura]

I've come close to sewing a finger in, but haven't done it yet. I did, however, cut the "webbing" between my index finger and thumb on my left hand once. I was cutting something tricky out and nicked it with the tips of my scissors. I've also run over my fingernails with the rotary cutter more than once.

Sewing is a dangerous hobby!

[pygmalion]

Holy cow!!! Those rotary cutters are sharp. I only use mine for quilting. I still use good old-fashioned scissors for sewing projects. But those rotary cutters can be lethal. I destroyed a lace tablecloth with the rotary cutters once. I used one of those old cardboard cutting boards instead of the newer Fiskars brand one I got. (I don't know what it's made of, but you can't cut through.) I sliced right through the cutting board and the table cloth. Fortunately, it was my Mom's everyday cloth, not the good, Battenburg lace one. If that had happened, I wouldn't be alive to tell this story today. :lol: :lol:

[Laura]

Well, then there was the time I nearly sliced off the tip of my left "ring" finger...fortunately the fingernail stopped me before it was way too late.

For all the danger, I still prefer using a rotary cutter to scissors. It's so much faster and more accurate for the way I tend to do things. I cut out the paper pattern first, then lay it on the fabric and "trace" around the pattern using the cutter. It saves me from having to pin the pattern to the fabric, too, I just use pattern weights (or cat food cans).

I love those "self-healing" mats that the various rotary brands offer. I have two of the largest ones and I use them when I'm cutting out dresses. It's a little odd right where the "seam" between the two mats is located, but a snip with regular scissors handles that (but that's how I cut my "webbing" that time).

The bottom line is that I'm both impatient and lazy, so that's why I like the rotary cutter!

[pygmalion]

Even though I was raised sewing the old fashioned way (with pins, pin basting, regular basting with thread, and wax marking *shudder*,) I love the weights. No more (or very few more) of those stinky pins, which, btw, rust, if you wait too long between cutting and sewing. I'm talking WEEKS, if you live in a humid climate. Grrr.

[dancin_feet]

Just a quick update.

We have done the shorts and skirt and they look fabulous!! Have also cut out a belt shaped piece in the accent colour and going to hand stitch it to the top of the shorts and skirt, just to break up the chocolate brown. Mum is finishing it up (hemming, elastic) this week and I'll pick it up on the weekend.

Now I just have to decide on a top. Still got loads of material left so am thinking of maybe a single shoulder fitted top with a short split sleeve so that it has a frilly bit to match the back of the skirt. Am waiting to get a little more into the choreography of the routine to see if we can put in a few looking over the shoulder moves and make the top to suit so I am looking over the bare shoulder!! :twisted:

Then I just need to sew on the brown and bronze sequins to sparkly it up a bit, and I'm done!

[pygmalion]

:banana: Yay! Sounds great! :D

[salsachinita]

8) We need to see pics in DF Album!

[dancin_feet]

Don't have a digital camera, but I can take some pics and see if I can get them put onto CD once it's finished.

[salsachinita]

Just mention to the photo lab (at time of developing) that you'd like a CD. It's cheaper getting it at the same time.

While I (aka DF Resident Dodo :wink: ) am trying to figure out my digital cam, I've been getting all my pics this way.

[pygmalion]

Hey dancin_feet. Are you still out there? How are the seamstress lessons coming? 8)

[SDsalsaguy]

Funny that you should have resurrected this thread now Jenn... a crafts forum is being added to the plexus right now, and may be up and running as early as tomorrow! :D

[pygmalion]

It's really funny. I've never considered myself a crafty person. So, recently, I went to a home demonstration party where craft kits were the featured item for sale. Each person at the party was asked to describe their crafts exposure. I sew and embroider, do needlepoint and cross stitch, dabble in quilting and do a little scrapbooking on the side. I think that counts. :wink:

I'll have to get my mom hooked on the craft forums, though. She's a quilt designer/piecer extraordinaire. I'd love to lurk and watch her and salsachinita talk quilts. 8)

An aside: Are home demonstration parties just an American thing? Just in case you have no idea what I'm talking about. I'm pretty sure these parties were pioneered by the Tupperware company back in the fifties, when most women were at home. You invite your close friends for a "party" at which a representative of some company displays products and the guests buy whatever appeals to them. It's actually pretty cool, and has turned into a livelihood for lots of stay-at-home moms. That's how Mary Kay Ash, for example, became a multi-millionaire. There are companies that sell crystal, china, pots, make-up, house wares and brick-a-brack, art work, crafts. You name it.