dancingbee
08-04-2004, 02:53 AM
Thanks Everyone -- for such a warm welcome. This is not always stated clearly when one strolls down to the dance floor. We look, we judge, we feel, and we conclude, in silence, or maybe along with the music. As a humble-new-bee, it was invigorating to receive greetings from all the upper class members.
In the Casa de La Musica in Centro Habana I mentioned earlier, I met a group of Germans. Apparently 2 German instructors have organized a group and collaborated with a local (commericalized...business-like) dancer to teach a week-long workshop. After spotting them (since the Cubans weren't laying their eyes on me...and I was really not sure which ones are Cubans except for the obvious), I asked a few of that group to dance with me. They danced...with a distinctive German style (maybe just the few). Then I danced with the Cuban instructor they had -- and I found a smoother version of their moves. The Cuban gave me a business card, quoting a price of $15/2 hours (oh my memory), which wasn't too different from the US price for a local instructor. I never called. I stuck with the student and Tropicana dancer I found through some effort...and with some luck.
Interestingly, Havana is not all about salsa, at least not for me. I went to a lesbian hip-hop concert and I ended up being pulled up stage to dance salsa to one of their tunes. There were some US college students from DC down in the audience. The most curious thing was that despite the fact that Cubans were so dynamic on stage (or at least the ones tourists get to know), the audience was quiet as they listen to the vibrant music and watch the youthful performance. I'd classify the performers as underground or free artists, maybe non-mainstream? I met a Cuban student and his Dutch girlfriend. Our guess was that under the political system, oridnary people are not used to expressing themselves in concerts like this. They appeared to be disciplined. But this wasn't what I saw at U Habana for a concert. It was dark, not enough power for lights, but they performed and danced anyways. It was pop/salsa music -- after the university annual sports meet. A bunch of people were dancing at the edge of the basketball court, open air of course.
Prior to my trip to the lesbian show, I went to a hip-hop concert near La Habana Vieja. I got this info by word of mouth through that Cuban student who's got a white GF. I was too late...it was over. But it only cost a dollar. I met some film producer from Germany, making documentaries about the city. The serendipritous element of a solo tour can never be described in full... even for someone who speaks less than 10 sentences of Spanish and who had to sign all the time (or perhaps precisely because of that?).
With the thought that the true Cuban tunes came from las montañas del este, I hopped on an Astro long-distance bus with a cart of Cubans. The one and only other foreigner next to me was a Mexican woman. She was nice, but I felt a bit lonely -- and seriously cold. It was an overnight ride with air-conditioning. I must say that the seats are not bad at all, it's just hard synthetic leather. I'd say it's at about the same level as a Grey Hound. But I did pay somewhere around 50...dollars. Cubans pay the same number, but in pesos. I think at that time 1 dollar was 15 pesos. I bought my Cuban experience I guess.
We stopped at various towns. At some point, perhaps 3 or 4 o'clock in the morning, I got off to walk around, maybe food? Nada, nichts, niete, almost nothing...not sure what might be hidden behind the counter. It must have been so unattractive that I didn't even remember. I saw people buying pretty big bags of soda crackers, but I wasn't tempted by that. Although, later in my trip, I did buy a bag of them, and they turned out to be the (close to) healthest and tastiest snack I could find in a land of food shortages. I refused to buy an over-priced "burger" with ham (Jamon) -- it cost 10 pesos (I calculated differently at that time, 10 days into my trip) and it was nothing but dry bread. One comment about the ham: they're thinner than the 3-ply Kleenex tissue in my opinion. But, such is life, in Cuba. And in many other countries. When I was feeling a bit anguished about what was available, I was feeling the problems and difficulties certain political and social systems can bring. These problems are manifested in little things and in people's thoughts and feelings.
Well, I suppose I need to come back to the music/dance issue of my destination of that trip. Mañana.
timbafreak
08-22-2004, 09:02 AM
Looking for food after dancing :lol: I remember that well, the phrase I heard most was 'no hay'
Here is a travel report I wrote when I got back, not strictly salsa based, but just some info how I found the country.
Bit of info about me. 24 yr old Black British girl travelling solo for three weeks. Can speak a bit of Spanish. Went to Cuba for music, dancing, and to perfect my Spanish. My itinerary you can see in my sig line, I ended up just going to Havana, SDC, Baracoa, and Trinidad
The day before I was due to go to Cuba, I met a Cuban girl who was going to Cuba the same day as me. She invited to stay with her family, obviously paying them.
I thought why not, lets see how a real family lives. So we met at Havana airport and took a cab down to Vedado where her family live. I had already decided if I didn’t like it, I’ll make my excuses and leave after a day or so. Well her family were lovely. Her mum, was a bit cold at first but she soon warmed up, and was telling about her time living in London, her brother went straight for my Cds, oh they love Sean Paul at the moment. Plus any hip hop I had, he started to make tapes of them all. I didn’t do much touristy things in Havana, the days were spent relaxing and chatting with family and the evenings were spent dancing in some club or another. We went to the Hotel Nacional once, where we were all asked for ID before we could go in, and the guard told me I am responsible for my ‘friends’.
A highlight for me was seeing Los Van Van in one of the big hotels.
A lot of people had told me before I left that Cuban just see tourists as dollars, but its not just us. Its also Cuban that live abroad. I remember one afternoon we went to a restaurant called Conejo, (crap food, don‘t bother!)and this restaurant had around 8 $4 set menus. Her family (4 of them) insisted on having the $8 menus instead, and her mum wanted a new fridge. There was a $500 and a $700 one. Guess which one her mum wanted? This results in a stand up row between them in the shop, my friend told her mum in no uncertain terms that she has the $500 with food, or the $700 one with nothing in it. Her mum sulkily accepted the $500 refrigerator.
This was a BIG contrast to her Great Grandma, who asked for nothing, she didn’t even have covers for a bed, and there were great massive cockroaches running around the house. When I tried to give her some money, she told me to leave it for Santa Barbara for my health.
I went to book my flight for Baracoa, but they were full for about 2 weeks, so I book a ticket to SDC instead, intending to take the Viazul to Baracoa the next day.
Back at home we had a party for my last day, we had load of food, and loads of drink. Lots of people came round, and there was lots of dancing and chatting, it was by far one of my best days on the island.
Do I feel I was ripped off by the family? Not really. I paid $20 a night for my room, and didn’t pay extra for food. If we went out, we split the cab fare half, and if we went for dinner, I’d pay for myself and she’d pay for all her and her family, which really started to add up. By the end of the my time in Cuba I felt really sorry for her, she was like a walking ATM.
Anyway after an hours sleep, I left for Santiago, got on the flight and it’s a little propeller plane, all the passengers are a tour group, apart from an old Austrian guy and myself. One of the propellers weren’t working so we had to get off and wait. The Austrian guy decides to come and sit next to me. His English isn’t very good and so we talk in Spanish instead. I become aware of getting really brutal stares from people, especially the tour guide. Then it clicks, they think I’m a jinetera! I was a bit annoyed, but brushed it off, no biggie, I knew I wasn’t and that was all that mattered. We then got on the plane and took off for SDC. It then became apparent that the Austrian guy thought I was easy too. He tried to touch my face and legs, then tried to shove a sweet that was in his mouth into mine. I gave him a slap, and told him not to talk to me for the rest of the flight which was thankfully nearly over.
This was to be the first of many incidents in SDC, foreign men, especially Italians, were trying to pick me up ALL the time, and no, I didn’t take it as a compliment. In all fairness to the North American men, they were quite polite, offering me a drink or something, and I’d reply in English, that would usually make them back off. But the Italians, they thought they owned every woman in the SDC. They actually made me sick, especially in IRIS, a night club near Plaza Marti. There were two guys with a Cuban who was basically picking up girls for them. The Italians pointed over to us, and the Cuban came over asking if we wanted to make some money, really pushy. We told him to go away we were foreigners, he was SO shocked, couldn’t stop apologising. Walked of found these really young girls, then came back trying to make friends with us instead!
I hadn’t booked any accommodation in SDC but I had a number, which I rang from the airport she had space, and so off I went. Lovely house, and people, very close to the Parque Cespedes $20 a night $3 for breakfast, and I think $6 for dinner. The breakfast was lovely, and the best Fresh Orange Juice I had on the Island.
Met a guy who took me to meet his family, and the difference between that house and my friends was amazing. They had a small TV, and a little radio. The was they had was in two massive tin barrels, and they used that to flush the toilet, and to cook and wash etc. No refrigerator and around 5 people sharing a 2 rooms, including a gorgeous 3 month old baby. It was truly humbling, because they were so happy. They lived in the Centro Urbano , which is like an estate which loads of apartments. His sister was chatting away ten to the dozen, because as she explained, they don’t have visitors often, and it was nice to talk to someone about something other than babies.
After that he took me to a baseball game. We don’t have that sport in England, and I was uttering confused, why did they keep changing around? Anyway the atmosphere was fantastic, and I really enjoyed it, especially the end where there was dancing outside the stadium.
Went to the casa de la Trova a few times, went to the Iris, which was loads of foreigners with there Cuban girlfriends/boyfriends.
Also met up with a girl I met over TT who‘s travelling with her friend, and hung out for a few days, really nice girl.
Moved on to Baracoa after a few days, by the Viazul. It was fine, watched a film, and stopped off a couple of places for something to eat and drink along the way.. Had big plans, I wanted to go to the yunque and see the Castillo, however it was raining quite a lot =, and I knew the Yunque would’ve been very muddy. So in the days I relaxed and in the evening I went to casa de la Trova where I saw one of the best bands on the trip. Maybe it’s the acoustics of the room, but the singers voice was so strong, he didn’t need a mic, and the band were on point. On my first day, I met the postman, who talks really good English he wanted to practise with me. I also met another guy who appointed himself tour guide. I didn’t mind really because he told everyone I was from SDC, and had lost my voice, so I paid in Pesos for EVERYTHING! It was really funny, we were dancing at the casa de la trove and this tourist started taking pictures of us, another one was filming it, and I was laughing thinking you’ve got a tapeful of a British girl! Eventually though, they twigged. I liked Baracoa, but I’m a city girl at heart, and small town was getting to me, so I went back to SDC.
Casa in Baracoa $15 a night, lovely room, good location, private entrance, but the owners! When I first got there, they told me that I HAD to eat there every night. Very politely, I told them the only thing I have to do on holiday is go home, and if they want someone who was going to eat there every night, I should go and look for another place. They then changed their tune and said not every day, but maybe some days, or even just 1 day. Then in the morning when they thought I was sleeping, I could hear her asking the cleaner to find out where I went last night, and where I’m eating!
Back in Santiago, I stayed with the girl I met on TT, she had moved into a house with 3 bedrooms, so I stayed in one of them. It was $50 a night for the house, which was around $17 each when we split it 3 ways. Spent the next few days in a drunken haze. Went out met people , got stopped by the police when I was talking on the street to an Australian guy I’d seen in Baracoa.
Eventually left for Trinidad, everywhere was $25 dollars I night. Booked somewhere and headed off. The Viazul was FREEZING, I think they were just taking the piss. Luckily I had nicked a blanket off the plane, but some people had come on with nothing and resorted to using towels, sarongs, anything!
Got there at 6 in the morning, went round to the house, and she’s full. Took me to her friends house who was full as well, but the guys were leaving within the half hour. Had breakfast, and while I waiting I noticed there was only one bathroom. Now called me spoilt or whatever. But for $25 a night, the most I’ve paid on the island, I want my own bathroom! So after breakfast, I went for a walk looking around for another room, but everywhere was full. A guy tried to take me to his friends house, saying I have a private bathroom, but it wasn’t. Eventually found a beautiful colonial house. Didn’t have my own bathroom, but by then I didn’t care. Took it. Went back to the other place got my stuff and went.
Unfortunately, they have two great big massive dogs. I’m allergic to dog and cat hair within half hour. I was sneezing, my eyes were swollen, and my tongue started to swell up too. I had to leave, which is such a shame because the patio was gorgeous. The only thing was there was no locks on the bedroom door.
So I was off again. Stopped in an internet shop, and was sending a email to my friend in SDC saying I might come back because I’m having no luck in Trinidad, when an Australian who was reading my email said that they know a guy who knows everyone, and they are sure he can find me somewhere. And he did. Trinidad is over run with dogs, and every house seems to have one, but he found me a house with NO dogs !! He was showing me the room he’s doing up to rent out, and it looks lovely. Went to the beach most days, some days by car, other days by the employee bus that runs every half hour. Divided my evenings between the casa de la musica, casa de la Trova, and ARTEX. A open air night club near the new square.
I liked Trinidad, but the begging there was the worse I’d seen it. One woman TOLD me to go home take off my trousers and give them to her. I gave one woman some clothes, and other women came up to me asking why her, they wanted them, and do I have anymore.
In all I had a fantastic time, the people I met I wouldn’t class as friends, but I did enjoy their company. Most were very sincere and were doing their best to help me, a few guys even paid for me at restaurants, and bought me little presents. The cynical part of me says though, that they were looking at it long term and trying to butter me up for the next time!
I don’t think I had that many hustlers approach me, as most people thought I was Cuban anyway. An example, sitting on the Plaza Marti in SDC reading, and for the most part I was ignored, whereas the German girl sitting opposite was constantly being harassed. Eventually, she moved to sit next to me, and found out I was foreign too, and were started talking in English. When the guys realised I wasn’t Cuban that was it, that wouldn’t leave me alone. One of them even said to me I was his perfect woman, because I have the body of a Cubana and I have money!! Needless to say he didn’t get very far with me.
CONCLUSION
As a black woman travelling alone, you have to be very forward, or you could end up alone a LOT.
Cubans think your Cuban, and apart from a quick hello say nothing else really. Genuine Cuban people don’t come running up to you in the street, and a good command of Spanish is necessary. I remember sitting in the casa grandee laughing at this this old guy with his novia behind his back, and sitting with a group of jineteros when they were deciding which women to pick up on the beach.
The Cuban men , ladies, are very smooth, just be careful. Phrases like mi amor, and mi vida, are used everyday, they aren’t special. When I was staying in Havana, we came home from clubbing (in a cab and the phrase was me vida cuanto es?) and my friend was moaning that her feet hurt, and her little brother just picked them up and started to massage them. It got me thinking how different the men are, we westerners would swoon over little things like that but to them its normal.
Other tourists think your Cuban too, once in Trinidad, this guy was taking a pictures of a dog, and the dog looked like it was posing for the picture, which I found quite sweet. So I said Excuse me do you speak English? To which he replied ‘I don’t have anything to give you, now leave me alone!’. Most tourists though, once they know are pretty cool.
Would I go back? YES if only for the music and the dancing. I now have a big appreciation of live bands. I was a bit disappointed with the dancing to be honest, most people tend to stick with their partners when dancing. Also the people are very patient when I’m mutilating their language. Quite funny though because now I don’t pronounce S in my words. True Oriente style!
It really does feel at times that life is standing still, and its very easy to lose track of time in Cuba, all the days feel the same.
TIPS
Ladies, if you bring a torch carry it round at night. I got caught twice without mine walking along, and suddenly…….. blackout!
Go there expecting crap food and be surprised when its good. After reading how awful the food was I was honestly surprised when I got there. I put on weight! (Although that could be the bottle or 2 of rum I had a day!) I even liked the 3 peso pizzas, with the apricot drink you get on G Izquierdo in Trinidad, where all the taxis hang out. My first time in Santiago I ate at people house I was visiting, rice and chicken. Fine. There wouldn’t take money, but I left some anyway. The second time, casa grande fine bland, the woman who rented us the house cooked for us, lovely. Also ate at my friends future Aunty in Law. In Baracoa I ate in a restaurant opposite the hotel Havana, don’t know its name. It was lovely. They use coconut in everything in Baracoa so the rice tasted like how my family cook it. I paid in Pesos, but talking to other tourists they paid in Dollars, still cheap I think.
In Trinidad, I ate in my casa a few times, but if someone gave asked me to eat at their house why not? I didn’t see why casa owners had to be the only people in the area profiteering from tourists. I ate at a house near the Casa de la Trova in Trinidad, and it was lovely. The girls hangs around there asking people , just go. Try it, its really nice.
Be a local, don’t spend $2 on cocktails (maybe 1 pina colada), buy a bottle of rum, and some coke. I personally preferred the pineapple soft drink, but hey each to there own.
Learn some Spanish before you go, otherwise you will be hustled silly!!
If you wants names of casa PM me and I’ll give them to you.
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