I need to add satin bias tape to a dress I am working on. I have done several bias tapes for my dresses. But it has never been easy. Because you cut the tape on bias on the fabric, it always got twisted and not even. It looks even while I cut, but when it is cut, not any more. So I thought there should be a better way to cut neat even bias tape. Help!
Satin has a lot of bias stretch. Cut a wide piece of the fabric on the bias, enough to make several bias strips from the width. Place the fabric face down on an ironing board or pressing board with the bias going the length of the board. Begin repeating your mantra: "No bias stretch. No bias stretch", and ease the fabric out to make sure there is no bias stretch.
Repeating your mantra, gently lay a pressing cloth over it. Mantra again. Press by lifting and placing the iron to press flat. Let cool and carefully lift the pressing cloth. If the fabric is magically flat with no evidence of bias stretch, your mantra is working. Check your leading edge with a yardstick. if it is straight, continue. Mantra again, gently lay the yardstick on the fabric, this time covering the strip you want to mark. Brush up your chalk. Press the yardstick firmly, and, repeating your mantra as you go, gently, gently, angel wings touch, mark the width of the tape.
Remove the yardstick and check that the chalkline is an even width along the length. With the sharpest, longest scissors you can handle, again repeating your mantra, carefully cut on the chalkline. lift the fabric from the board ony the height of the bottom blade of the scissors. Let the fabric fall back into place. Do not pull or tug. Make sure there's no stretch - the strip should be a magically even witdth the entire length. Press again.
Now the hard part - folding without stretching. Mantra again. Gently begin folding the longest section you can comfortably manage. Once youre sure it's even, press gently with a rather cooler iron. (unfortunately a pressing cloth is impractical at this point.) Lift and place the iron at all times. Keep the iron fairly far from the unfolded portion to avoid the dreaded bias stretch. Leave the iron in place and fold the next section. Continue on through the whole length.
You'll get good and swift at this. It becomes, if not a piece of cake, a pretty easy sewing technique. Just don't forget your mantra.