Sew along with Laura: Burda 7879

Hi Laura.
I am going to make Burda 7879 for my daughter, will it be ok to do the skirt in just Lycra, or does it still need a chiffon layer on top? also as there is no zip in the dress, was it difficult to get on and off. She also wants sleeves in it made out of that flesh coloured mesh,( not sure what you call it)
 
Hi Helen! I'm not Laura, but I did make this dress for a couple of friends. Yes, I did a full Lycra skirt for both of them, the dress slips on and off over the head (they both had short hair). The mesh nude sleeves? might also be known as PowerNet. Although I made each person their own handless gloves - which they loved as we attached kerchief scarfs for floats when they did standard. Have fun.
 
OK, a related question. After my effort with the skirt, I decide to make a top and I used an easy burda pattern for that (it's 50-something, a drapey top with bat sleeves, really simple to put together). Anyway, after I established my size, cut the fabric, and put it together, it turned out to be too large. No, I didn't make a mistake of adding extra seam allowance. I had to narrow the side seams more than 2 inches on either side to get a reasonable fit. Even accounting for the fact that my hips corresponded to one size below the one I picked (I went with the one that was supposed to fit the chest), that's still a lot. I've noticed that earlier on this thread Laura mentioned some parts of the pattern being too big for her. Is it a typical problem that the pattern would run larger?
 
OK, a related question. After my effort with the skirt, I decide to make a top and I used an easy burda pattern for that (it's 50-something, a drapey top with bat sleeves, really simple to put together). Anyway, after I established my size, cut the fabric, and put it together, it turned out to be too large. No, I didn't make a mistake of adding extra seam allowance. I had to narrow the side seams more than 2 inches on either side to get a reasonable fit. Even accounting for the fact that my hips corresponded to one size below the one I picked (I went with the one that was supposed to fit the chest), that's still a lot. I've noticed that earlier on this thread Laura mentioned some parts of the pattern being too big for her. Is it a typical problem that the pattern would run larger?

You could have a couple things. First, for picking your size, did you go by a off the rack size? If you're normally a size 6, you'll be a completely different size in patterns. And each pattern maker sizes differently. So definitely match your measurements to the specific pattern makers size guide.

If it's a drapey top, it's very likely it's cut on/off the bias (whichever way means diagnonally, I can't remember).
If you stretch fabric along the lines of the threads, you'll get a certain amount of stretch. If you stretch diagonally across the threads, you'll get a lot more stretch. Most fabrics will also "relax" and become bigger along any lines cut across that diagonal. (It's why using pi and perfect geometric measurements to create a circle skirt will leave you with a giant waistband. Fabric will grow on the diagonal.) It makes things drape beautifully, but can be difficult to deal with when you're trying to make something have a tailored fit.
Add the diagonally relaxing to a fabric that's already got some stretch (and running stretch fabric through the sewing machine will tend to stretch it a bit, even if you don't think you're stretching it.) Well all that can end up with your creation being a few inches bigger than you originally planned. Especially if you're sewing with stretch fabric on a pattern that was designed for non-stretch fabric.

I think you've mentioned that you're on the larger chested side. Depending on the drape of the top, you might be able to just pinch it in at the waist a bit to make it workable. Which is a lot easier than altering darts and such. So I'll cross my fingers that will work for you. If not, every project is a learning experience that will make the next project turn out better! :)
 
You could have a couple things. First, for picking your size, did you go by a off the rack size? If you're normally a size 6, you'll be a completely different size in patterns. And each pattern maker sizes differently. So definitely match your measurements to the specific pattern makers size guide.

If it's a drapey top, it's very likely it's cut on/off the bias (whichever way means diagnonally, I can't remember).
If you stretch fabric along the lines of the threads, you'll get a certain amount of stretch. If you stretch diagonally across the threads, you'll get a lot more stretch. Most fabrics will also "relax" and become bigger along any lines cut across that diagonal. (It's why using pi and perfect geometric measurements to create a circle skirt will leave you with a giant waistband. Fabric will grow on the diagonal.) It makes things drape beautifully, but can be difficult to deal with when you're trying to make something have a tailored fit.
Add the diagonally relaxing to a fabric that's already got some stretch (and running stretch fabric through the sewing machine will tend to stretch it a bit, even if you don't think you're stretching it.) Well all that can end up with your creation being a few inches bigger than you originally planned. Especially if you're sewing with stretch fabric on a pattern that was designed for non-stretch fabric.

I think you've mentioned that you're on the larger chested side. Depending on the drape of the top, you might be able to just pinch it in at the waist a bit to make it workable. Which is a lot easier than altering darts and such. So I'll cross my fingers that will work for you. If not, every project is a learning experience that will make the next project turn out better! :)

The patterns had a sizing chart with hip, waist and chest measurements corresponding to each size. Since I am well-endowned, I have picked the size which went with my chest (and ironically, if I went shopping for tops in europe, that would be the size I'd be buying), but if I used my hips as a main measurement, I would take a size smaller. The pattern was meant for stretch fabric.

Now for this particular project, I was able to narrow it down by taking the side seams way in, so it came out OK. Could fit better at the neck, but nothing major I can't live with. This top was really simple - finish the neckline, run side and shoulder seams, hem sleeves and bottom and you're done. But I would have been better off choosing the size 3 sizes smaller than the one I picked. And if I try to do something more complicated in the future, which doesn't lend itself to adjustment as easily, I definitely would like to know if the patterns run larger and I need to go with the size for smaller measurements.
 
sorry if this question was already asked and answered: where do you buy this fancy fabrics in such wonderful colors? My every trip to a fabric store ends in deep disappointment about quality and colors of available choices.
 
It depends - what fabrics are you looking for? How much $$ are in your budget?
I have access to downtown Los Angeles was has a great fabric district and lots of lycra 4 way stretch, chiffon, silks that change on a regular basis. You might want to check out Spandex House? I believe is on the web or Spandex World? Denver Fabrics, if you have a fashion district near you - more than likely there is a fabric district as well. Also, several of the ballroom designers, for example, Chrisanne and others do sell their fabrics or have swatch cards with fabric samples available. Ask around and searching the web for the kind of fabric you need is a start - I'm sure you'll find some great bargains.
 

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