Sprucing up my Standard gown - sewing questions!

[SwingingAlong]

I have been having fun with making stuff I have learnt so mach, just doing these. Still a way to go - don't feel I have the cut of the back and sides quite right on either of them. And while I love the colour combo on the rose dress, I'm not sure it suits me particularly....do like the blue one though. Happy with how the hibiscus turned out. Hopefully they are recognizable!! Interesting how much more the red chiffon floats stand out, as opposed to the blue (organza).

 

[3wishes]

Has anyone made the type of Latin costume that is basically a leotard and some fabric draped over it?

Two questions:

1. Any hints on how to cut the fabric, is it on the bias, what shape the cut fabric should be, etc.?

2. The fabric that I have is a very pretty heavy weight purple power mesh. I have 5 yards, so there should be plenty to work with. When I showed it to my pro his first comment was "that fabric is see-through" yet I know that latin costumes are often made out of power mesh. Should I consider using two layers of fabric once I figure out the proper shape? Or should I assume that it's a drapey costume and my body is covered by the leotard and that it's all good?

Any advice is much appreciated!

Sania, do you have access to a sewing body dummy? I have one. I suggest putting your leotard on the sewing dummy and draping your fabric, using long sewing pins to place it for the drape affect your looking for, before cutting. Also, yes, cut on the bias. The amount of layers depends on your ultimate image and the movement of the finished product that your going for.

 

[Sania]

Sania, do you have access to a sewing body dummy? I have one. I suggest putting your leotard on the sewing dummy and draping your fabric, using long sewing pins to place it for the drape affect your looking for, before cutting. Also, yes, cut on the bias. The amount of layers depends on your ultimate image and the movement of the finished product that your going for.

Thanks! I do have one and will experiment. The challenge will be to get that cool drapey look without looking too large in the process. The fallback would be a more fitted and flared skirt with some kind of crisscross draping at front or back to get the movement of the fabric and feel of the drape.

- do more layers = more movement or less movement?

 

[3wishes]

Less layers, mid-weight or chiffon type, moves well. However, if the fabric is very light you can double up and achieve the same affect.

 

[datitmarsh]

In a standard underskirt, if I were to add ruffles at lower end to create fullness, is it better to do gathered or circular ruffle? Or is it just a personal preference?

 

[3wishes]

In a standard underskirt, if I were to add ruffles at lower end to create fullness, is it better to do gathered or circular ruffle? Or is it just a personal preference?

I've had both. Realize when you add this, the weight of your costume changes, and you may have to adjust your hemline.

 

[flying_backwards]

In a standard underskirt, if I were to add ruffles at lower end to create fullness, is it better to do gathered or circular ruffle? Or is it just a personal preference?

A circular ruffle makes a more swirly flare-out and has less fabric per yard of circumference. If you have the patience to sew a fishing line hem to the ruffle then you get even more swirl power.

To my eye, a gathered ruffle is not the look I associate with Standard gowns.

 

[datitmarsh]

I've had both. Realize when you add this, the weight of your costume changes, and you may have to adjust your hemline.

A circular ruffle makes a more swirly flare-out and has less fabric per yard of circumference. If you have the patience to sew a fishing line hem to the ruffle then you get even more swirl power.

To my eye, a gathered ruffle is not the look I associate with Standard gowns.

Oh thank you. I was planning the circular ones with horsehair. Would that increase the swirl power?

 

[flying_backwards]

yes

 

[datitmarsh]

yes

Awesome, thanks!

 

[SwingingAlong]

To my eye, a gathered ruffle is not the look I associate with Standard gowns.

Depends on the gather/ruffle size. I love these, with both fishing line and narrow ruffle. A useful way to add volume, especially when you are in country where NOBODY stocks horsehair crinoline:
http://silviadesign.eu/look-at-me/

 

[flying_backwards]

silviadesign

Gorgeous gowns. I stand corrected. Their double-edged gathered tulle ruffle packs some poof!

 

[SwingingAlong]

Gorgeous gowns. I stand corrected. Their double-edged gathered tulle ruffle packs some poof!

Yeah, I find her designs really inspiring Had to buy a ruffle foot to try things out. I made a 2 circle practice skirt in a hot pink satin with black chiffon overlay, and then edged both layers with a 25mm black organza ribbon at max ruffle (3x). It's great!! I am just now playing with my new overlocker (serger) learning how to do the fishing line part......

 

[datitmarsh]

Yeah, I find her designs really inspiring Had to buy a ruffle foot to try things out. I made a 2 circle practice skirt in a hot pink satin with black chiffon overlay, and then edged both layers with a 25mm black organza ribbon at max ruffle (3x). It's great!! I am just now playing with my new overlocker (serger) learning how to do the fishing line part......

Would love to see a photo of that if you have one.

 

[flying_backwards]

I am just now playing with my new overlocker (serger) learning how to do the fishing line part......

I've considered purchasing or at least borrowing a serger for the fishing line hem. It is possible with an ordinary zigzag stitch on a sewing machine but after the first few yards becomes brain numbing back aching labor.